And that’s a wrap. Theonemileslide is done. 9 months, 10 Counties, 20,000km overland. Seven surfboards, 80 new spots, 300+ sessions, 5000 or so waves… Countless new friends, good times and life-changing experiences. Thanks to everyone I met and travelled with along the way, you’re all legends and made this trip what it was: Super-f#@king-awesome.
Best of the best. Chilean perfection
Oh yea, have been asked whether the one mile slide actually happened. Unfortunately No. Longest rides probably went something like:
Pavones (Costa): 400m
La punta (Mex): 450m
Punta Lobos (Chile): 500m
Puntilla (Chile): 600m
Chicama (Peru): 900m – though you could ride the full 2k length by getting a few waves down the point
So all in all….Fail. Will have to try again. Sigh.
Favourite bum request so far in San Fran: “Hey buddy, can ya spare some change? Trying to get a few bucks together to get me a hooker….”
Unfortunately, most aren’t as creative but just as desperate and its depressing to see in a city this progressive. I would have thought addressing these problems at home would take priority over telling the rest of the world how to live…. but hey, what would I know.
What I do know is that there’s a wave under the Golden Gate Bridge that only works when its huge…. Its cold, foggy and pretty miserable out there but its gotta be done (after buying new booties and gloves for the second time this trip dammit!). Paddling out, it looked kinda mushy with mainly kooks & mals so paddled pretty deep inside up the rocks. Nice one came through, caught it, went to get up and discovered that my brand new slick-skin gloves don’t stick without wax….slip once, slip twice, by the time I stand i’m freefalling onto the rocks. Jumped off but too late – swept up onto the rocks right under the crowd & spent the rest of the set seal-rolling off them. Fail. Lost the gloves and things went slightly better. Entertained by a longboarder and a shortboard having a go at each other. Things got so heated that shortie paddled over and sat on longie’s board – so now they could go off at each other from 6 inches apart. Interestingly it never got to punches thrown….?
Next morning has cleaned up and Ocean Beach is 6 foot, offshore and Pumping. Unusual i’m told. Visit Mollusk surf-shop, Very cool and definitely worth a look if you’re in town and catch up with Max who I haven’t seen since we surfed some insane lefts together in the south of Chile months ago.
Shift change: Matty out for NZ and Raglan – will miss ya bud and Mum & Sal in for a couple of weeks of Cali-cruisin. Great to see them after nine months on the road & looking forward to hanging with them both for a while.
Ocean Beach - 6 foot, offshore, pumping
“Don’t lie to me boy, the camera can tell if you’re lying to me!”
Was Matty’s introduction to the US of A. Other awkward questions included:
“Why have you been travelling for so long!? Surfing? Surfing? what sort of surfing can you do for 8 months?”
“Why has your friend got a PhD. and you got Nuffin!?”
“Where do you hide your contraban?”
The day started pretty badly getting charged $400 in excess baggage on a $200 United flight (apparently the boards were both oversize and overweight). Wouldn’t have been quite so bad if they didn’t smash the nose of the Brewer in the process! Then, given the third degree by LAX immigration/customs (any longer than two weeks travelling & they assume you mustn’t be gainfully employed & therefore engaging in drug running or similar activities to pay the bills)…. Finally got out of that and figured we were about through the worst of it when we got to the “Thrifty” rental car…. Lets just say appearances can be deceiving and the ‘compulsory insurance‘ added on at the counter was three times the original rental price! Gotta love visiting a broke state.
So we finally get on the 405 south to San Diego just in time for Friday arvo rush hour traffic. By this time we haven’t eaten for 12 hours and are about over it. Finally get down to Oceanside (or Oside as referred to by the local white middle-class gangstas) & buy the biggest burger we’ve ever seen in our lives. We can’t even finish this thing! The surf off the pier’s pretty good but we’re struggling to move let along pull out wettie and board. Meet up with Derek for the first time since Panama & spend a few days with him surfing and cruising between Oceanside & San Diego. Waves are small but fun & waters not too cold (still…. glad I lugged the Patagonia all the way up here!)
As luck would have it the first big NW storm of the year is firing up and due early in the week. Our mate Johnnie on the central coast has lined up a boat for a mission into the legendary Ranch. Theonemileslide lives on!
That’s all, its done. Point cranked, tommys left (sorry, but as i’m the only one surfing it i’ll freakin name it what I like) spat out barrels like a….barrel-spitting machine and the beach break….well the beach break was just its usual gnarly, packed-with-boogies, uninviting self. Did pick up a new addition to the family courtesy of my mate Reilly – a pristine 9’0 Brewer gun. She’s a beautiful machine – though i’m not sure if she’ll ever be field tested in truly adequate conditions….
Time to part ways with Hectic & the big G. Thanks for the memories and enjoy the rest of the trip boys, its been alltime. Californian-bound with Matty-dub to catch up with a few of the great crew we’ve met along the way. Will miss you Mexico with your unexpectedly good lefthand point, tortillas with every meal and generally random flavour.
La Punta - still going all day every day
Newest addition to the family
After four months of wear from Peru to Mexico #1 surf-shirt reaches retirement
From where you're rather be....
Hello Mexico city….. you’re just like every other city…. but mexican flavored.
- Congratulations to Mr Greg Long – wave of the summer. photo: Surfline
After throwing the kitchen sink at us last weekend only to have disrespectful young punks from Hawaii paddle out on shortboards and Greg Long catch wave of the summer, the Pacific would appear to be sulking. Swell has dropped by the day and while we had some cracking days on the point and then the beach break, Puerto’s starting to look like….well Manly in Sept. While we haven’t exactly been rushed off our feet the last few weeks it does feel like we’ve been on the move constantly and a few extremely relaxing lay days at Casa de Dan’s have gone down very well.
With time in Mexico running out, chance for one last little mission. This time to a right hand rivermouth just up the coast that everyone’s been frothing over. With apparently amazing sand at the moment and new swell due Tuesday I think we’ll be timing our run pretty well….
La Punta - still doing it
Bonnie Geronimo getting creative (and wet)
With a huge swell on the way we had counted on the southern Mexican rights to deliver but a chronic lack of sand rendered sticking around somewhat pointless. So back to Puerto Escondido for the pro-show. And the pro-show it was; all-star cast flown in, Red Bull jet skis, photogs galore. But while last swell was ‘friendly’ by Puerto standards, this was…NOT. Too SW to hit the canyon properly resulting in huge straight walls, heaving closeouts, ½ mile flash-rips and one seven minute hold-down!? (and still alive). Super impressive but definitely not for us. Again, the point provided sanctuary with even better sand now. Mechanical, tubing perfection….