Foam is your friend

Big, clean and glassy. Hoping to just go take a few photos but Diego came to the ‘rescue’ with lend of his 7’6″ gun….thanks….kinda. Being able to see more than 50 m helped but the Los Morros jump still scares the crap out of me. Waited a good 15 minutes before the final jump into the keyhole. Even getting a ‘lull wave’ on the head here (see 2nd to last pic of the Los Morros sequence) is bad times. So extra foam is good, few bigger ones under the belt. Ollie taking off under the lip of an 8 footer sticks in the mind, I can’t quite work out how a German got to be a big wave charger…he did & he is. Rogue 10 footer cleaning out the lineup an experience. Unscathed, safe return of the board. Result.

Morros from the pancake shack

Mid sized one. The keyhole is to the bottom right of the pic

Steps to Los Morros. Note the consequences of a mis-timed jump in 2nd to last shot

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2 Responses to Foam is your friend

  1. Mark says:

    F- me.

  2. Marty H says:

    Reminds me of the paddle to that secret spot near Karekare. Haha.

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