Heading south from Pitchilemu into the 7th and 8th regions the landscape changes noticeably. Wetter, colder, greener. Reminds me a lot of East Coast NZ in September. The poor snail (our crap rental – see last post) was given a rough time. Dirt roads no 2WD should manage thanks to missing the main turnoff and having to slip and slide down an old forestry track. She paid us back by clogging up the cabin and boot with so much dust I was picking black from my nose for the whole week.
Original accommodation plan fell through when we turned up at the place and were told there were 30 Chileano Weons coming for a birthday party next day…no thanks! So, what do you do when there’s an hour of light left and you don’t have a place to sleep… ahhh fuckit, lets go surfing. Went back to a sweet little sandbottom point we saw earlier and the only other guy in the water had Cabanas available in the next town. Result.
Great area – horses and carts, friendly small-town locals and really really good waves. We named our favourite point ‘The Office‘ as you had to get up early for it on the morning low tide and were usually there until after dark. Amazing shallow sand point with little lefts barrelling down its length. Surfed it by ourselves for 4 days straight. High hopes for the next swell but neap tides killed the perfection. Surfed a few more local spots but nothing as good so started heading back north.
The earthquake two years ago really knocked this area around with lots of collapsed adobe brick buildings and quick makeshift houses evidenteverywhere. There’s still a lot of fear too with M7.2 quake sending people for the hills. We were at The Office at the time and only noticed weird, choppy water for a while. Didn’t know what was going on until we saw people and police everywhere during the drive home.
Heading north we surfed a couple of spots but no keepers until we pulled into a town to check on a rumour we’d heard down south. Jackpot! Lefts reeling. We’d never heard or read about this place and despite the town nearby there were only a couple of local surfers. Things fell into place again with a 4WD pulling up to a locked gate as we were checking the surf. “You boys surfing?”, “Yep”, “Got a place to stay?”, “Nope”, “I have Cabanas in front of the break”. Result #2. Apparently his old place ended up 3k away after the Tsunami so he had some crazy space domes set up instead. Comfy, warm and we were the only ones staying right in front of the surf. Worked for me.
Swell eventually dropped and were contemplating heading back north to Pichi when an afternoon wander further around the point yielded….Gold. Heavy grinding left point. We later found out the name of the place but since I couldn’t pronounce it in spanish I just called it T-rex – cos it was fcking ‘Grarrr’ (yea, I thats what I reckon a T-rex sounded like) right onto rock shelf. Surfed there by ourselves for a couple of days then finally was time to leave. Great area, great trip, back to Pichi for weekend Asado and big swell due next week…
Sorry about the lack of effort on photo presentation (or order) but its late, there’s too many photos and I just don’t really care. enjoy 😉